Leopard geckos are relatively easy to maintain, and a good choice for the beginner. Most leopard geckos are captive bred, and not taken from the wild. They have a long life span, however, so be sure you are willing to commit to the care of the animals for years to come. They do not resent handling as much as other reptiles, but it is necessary to hold them properly. Do not hold or restrain the gecko by the tail, as it could break off. If the tail is broken off, it will usually regenerate, but may not look the same.

The Leopard gecko has yellow, brown, white, and, most recently, leucistic phases. There are usually dark brown spots on a white or pale yellow background. Young geckos have alternating bands of color which gradually break up into the spots or splotches as the animal ages. The skin has many knoblike bumps, giving it a rough appearance, though the skin is soft to the touch. The male is more heavily built than the female with a broader head and thicker neck. Males also have a V-shaped row of pre-anal pores, a wider tail base and post-anal swellings. Leopard geckos are unusual in that they have eyelids. They do not have clinging toe pads, so they can not climb vertical surfaces. The leopard gecko can live 15-20 years in captivity; some have lived up to 30 years.

The leopard gecko needs a steady supply of water. There should be a large rock in the water bowl to allow the crickets to climb out of the water. This will prevent them from fouling the water. Change the water daily. The crickets, or other live food should be fed a high quality food and dusted with both a vitamin and a calcium/vitamin D supplement before being fed to the gecko. Feed juveniles once a day, and adults every other day. For adults, use the calcium/vitamin D supplement every other feeding and the vitamin supplement twice a week. A small dish of calcium can be available in the tank at all times. After several hours, remove any uneaten crickets or other food. Obesity can be a problem for some geckos, so reduce the amount fed if your pet starts to look overweight.

Leopard geckos live on land, and generally do not climb, therefore it is important to have a long, shallow aquarium or other housing unit, versus a tall, short one. The substrate can be sand, artificial turf, paper toweling or newspaper. If using sand, you may want to feed the gecko in another cage to prevent the gecko from ingesting too much sand as he captures his food.

Leopard geckos are nocturnal and do not have the same need for ultraviolet light-B (UVB) as many other species. Although UVB light appears not to be necessary, some herpetologists recommend it. An incandescent bulb can be used to supply light and heat during the day, and a red bulb or ceramic heater at night. An under-tank heating pad may also be needed under part of the aquarium to provide a temperature gradient. Watch for any hot spots, however. Leopard geckos require a humidity of 40-60% for proper shedding. If the humidity is low, place moist peat moss in a hidebox made from plastic or Tupperwarebox, with a small entry hole. Mist the peat periodically to keep it moist.

Do not house two male leopard geckos together, as they will fight. If you house females, or a male and female together, increase the tank size as you add animals. A 20-gallon aquarium could house three. Leopard geckos are one of the easiest reptiles to breed.

When purchasing a leopard gecko, always have it examined by a veterinarian. Geckos may have intestinal parasites that could cause serious disease, and some can be transmitted to people. These parasites can be identified through examination of the feces, and effectively eliminated.

パキスタン、アフガニスタンの岩がゴツゴツあるような砂漠に住むトカゲモドキの一種(ヤモリの仲間)です  展示を見て頂ければわかると思いますがニホンヤモリのように壁を登ったりすることは出来ず 地表性です


1 トカゲモドキには、まぶたがあるがヤモリにはない

2 ヤモリは吸盤があり壁を昇ることができるがトカゲモドキには吸盤がない


それでは本題に、ヒョウモントカゲモドキは全身に豹紋があるのでそのように呼ばれ、英語ではleopard geckoで、leopard=豹、gecko=ヤモリです  カタカナ読みするとレパードゲッコーなので通称レオパ(愛称)と呼びます








1  昼間は岩の隙間で休み夜餌を食べ行動する ⇒昼間活動する爬虫類(カメやいろいろな種類のトカゲなど)は太陽光に似た光を出すランプが必要になるがレオパは必要ない

2  昼と夜で温度差の激しい砂漠に住む ⇒温度変化に強い その他の爬虫類ほど温度に気を使わなくて良い

3  尻尾に栄養を溜める(ラクダのコブのように)⇒餌を毎日あげることに気を使わなくても良い

4についてですが個人でも手軽に繁殖ができ、品種改良がとても進んでいて同じレオパとは思えないくらい品種によって柄が違います 特にハイポタンジェリンという種やアルビノは、ヒョウモントカゲモドキと名前に豹紋が付いているにもかかわらず豹紋は殆どありません。




このページではレオパの現状が書いてあります メモみたいなものです 実際はもっと脱皮の回数が多いですが記録していた限りでは以下のようになっています

生物が来てからの時間  レオパ画像うp 先日作った飼い方動画


9月8日 ビバホームでオスを買う

9月27日 脱皮





1月15日3日間くらい餌を食べていない 少し拒食気味

1月16 ジャイミルを2匹食べる 順調に食べ始める

1月27 脱皮



3月8日脱皮  買ったときに比べおおきくなったきがする




4月15日 脱皮

4月16日 偏食ぎみ ここ2週間ジャイミルしか食べず 参考




6月25日脱皮  そろそろ持ち帰る予定


 2011/07/10  ジャイミルを3匹食べる

2011/08/05  拒食気味  だがしっぽが太っていつので大丈夫そう

2011/08/13  食べる

2011/08/21 よく食べるようになる

9月10日  脱皮

 9/21 ジャイミル 4匹食べる

 2011/10/05 脱皮

2012/01/19 拒食










卵がへこむ  1クラッチ目はむせい卵になりやすいという話も

3月18日 2クラッチ目

3月30日 抱卵

4月1日 3クラッチ(6個目) また前回の卵はキャンドリングするとむせい卵っぽい産卵の様子   交尾確認

4月14日 産卵4クラッチ目 8個目

4月26日 むせい卵であることが分かる

4月29日 産卵5クラッチ目 (10個目)

5月15日 産卵6クラッチ

6月3日 産卵7クラッチ

 2011/07/09 卵を生んでいたのを発見 16個目 2週間ぶりに餌を食べる

2011/08/21 下痢気味

2011/10/05 脱皮

2012/02/27 一週間前卵幾つか発見

2012/04/01   産卵